Monkey’s East Face Attempt

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Summary

East Face (Monkey Face)

Shirley starting up pitch 1 of the East Face route on Monkey Face (Apr. 14, 2007).

A drizzly Saturday in April of 2007 led us to some aid. Started up the East Face (C2) on Monkey Face. By the time Shirley reached the top of pitch 1, the on-off drizzle turned into a downpour and so we rapped off and bailed. On Sunday, went to the Lower Gorge and got on Gruff (5.10a) and Badfinger (5.10b).

Photos

East Face

East Face (Monkey Face)

Beginning the lead of P1 of East Face on Monkey Face (Apr. 14, 2007).


East Face (Monkey Face)

Leading P1 of East Face (5.13d or C2; FFA by A. Watts with preplaced gear; Sonnie Trotter placed the gear himself and bypassed all fixed shit on the line....can you say big brass & hairy ones?) line on Monkey Face. The sharp arete on the right is Spank The Monkey (5.12a with 5.13+ extension put up by Tommy Caldwell). The face on the left is lower portions of Just Do It (5.14c). The thin crack on the left is To Be Looked Up 5.11. Get after those all you hard men out there (Apr. 14, 2007)!!


East Face (Monkey Face)

P1 of Monkey's East Face line - thin crack & steep terrain (Apr. 2007).


East Face (Monkey Face)

Unknown climber on the free air rappel off of Monkey Face. The wall on the right (in profile) is the east face; the QD's are hanging on the famous Just Do It (5.14c).


East Face (Monkey Face)

Almost to the top of pitch 1 of East Face (C2; Apr. 2007).


East Face (Monkey Face)

Shirley starting up pitch 1 of the East Face route on Monkey Face (Apr. 14, 2007).


East Face (Monkey Face)

Unknown climbers atop the Kiss Of The Lepers Buttress as seen from top of pitch 1 of East Face. There's a rainstorm coming in (Apr. 2007).


East Face (Monkey Face)

Shirley backaiding pitch 1 of East Face route on Monkey Face (Apr. 14, 2007).


East Face (Monkey Face)

Shirley working hard to remove an RP near top of P1 of Monkey's East Face line. Only thing keeping us dry from the downpour is the overhanging nature of the face (Apr. 14, 2007).


East Face (Monkey Face)

5.12+ finger locks (hehehehhe 🙂 at start of P2 of East Face on Monkey Face. Photo taken from the comfort of aiders on a rainy April 14th 2007.

Gruff

Gruff

Starting the lead of Gruff (5.10a) in Smith's Lower Gorge. Shirley's belaying (Apr. 2007).


Gruff

Higher on Gruff (5.10a) on the Wildfire Wall in Smith's Lower Gorge (Apr. 2007).

Badfinger

Badfinger

Starting up Badfinger (5.10b) on the Wildfire Wall in Smith's Lower Gorge (Apr. 2007).


Badfinger

Leading Badfinger (5.10b) just past the first roof. The crux (IMHO) is the finger crack section above the second roof (Apr. 2007).


Badfinger

Shirley following Badfinger (5.10b) just below the second (harder) roof (Apr. 2007).


Badfinger

Blondie taking in the ambiance of Smith's Lower Gorge (Apr. 2007).


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