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The Text
Shirley climbing Double Cracks (5.10a) belayed by yours truly on top...a great route (June 2008).
Sometimes things balance themselves out. If the Cochise climbing trip last year lies at one end of the weekend climb-trip spectrum, our last weekend’s City Of Rocks outing is at its polar opposite. No busted ankles, no bleeding eye sockets, no insect bites, no falls, no vertical boulder fields, no mystery infections, no f…ed up weather, no dislocated shoulders…wait, scratch that one. Other than a sprained canine “wrist” joint, one speeding ticket, 4.22 tanks of Saudi’s finest, and 20 hours of driving, it was just 1.5 wonderful climbing days on solid rock in the beautiful Idaho sunshine! Great rock, great pitches and great beer. Blondie’s grounder on a 4th class boulder descent (hence sprained paw), Shirley’s traditional lead of Batwings (bypass the bolt on the Direct variation) and a handjam of mine that refused to quit on Z Cracks provided the only drama. Oh yeah, we perhaps got some good karma points for changing an old couple’s flat tire on the Idaho backroads (which was quickly spent in having my speeding ticket knocked down a bracket). As a good Taliban, I once again “let” my wife fight most of the battles for me – Shirley led some quality pitches in good style with Thin Slice (and actually Batwings) being her pride and joy. Nothing else to be said other than some photos.
In summary…
On Saturday, I led Z-Cracks (3/4 stars), Double Cracks (3+/4 stars), and Colombian Crack (4/4 stars). Shirley led Snakes & Ladders (2+/4 stars), Batwings (4/4 stars!!), and Rye Crisp (4/4 stars). On Sunday, I led nothing….unless bailing off the first bolt counts as leading. Shirley led Carol’s Crack (3/4 stars) & Thin Slice (4/4 stars).
The Photos
Saturday
Leading the short but fun Z-Cracks (5.9) on King On The Throne formation at the City Of Rocks (June 2008).
Starting up Snakes And Ladders route (5.9) on King On The Throne formation at the City Of Rocks (June 2008).
Shirley leading Snakes And Ladders (5.9) on King On The Throne formation at the City Of Rocks (June 2008).
Shirley past the difficulties on Snakes And Ladders (5.9) route on King On The Throne formation (June 2008).
Shirley atop the King On The Throne (Queen On The Throne??) after leading Snakes And Ladders (5.9; June 2008).
Leading the very nice Double Cracks (5.10a) route on the King On The Throne formation at the City Of Rocks (June 2008).
Leading the Double Cracks (5.10a) on King On The Throne formation at the City of Rocks (June 2008).
Shirley climbing Double Cracks (5.10a) belayed by yours truly on top...a great route (June 2008).
Shirley and Blondie at the base of Double Cracks route (June 2008).
Shirley launching into the crux of Bat Wings (5.8+) route (June 2008).
Shirley leading Bat Wings (5.8) on Parking Lot Rock at the City Of Rocks. She's entering the likely crux of the route. Norma's Book follows the large chimney on the left (June 2008).
Shirley leading Bat Wings' crux (5.8+; June 2008).
Shirley leading Batwings (5.8) belayed by yours truly. A spectacular line (June 2008).
Shirley on the summit of Parking Lot Rock after leading Batwings. Bath Rock is in the background as are the Twin Sisters (behind Bath; June 2008).
Looking towards King On The Throne formation from the top of Batwings on Parking Lot Rock (June 2008).
The Incisor (a.k.a. Morning Glory Spire) as seen from the top of Parking Lot Rock (June 2008).
Shirley rapping Bat Wings route on Parking Lot Rock. The climber on the left is on Delay Of Game (5.8 sport; June 2008).
Leading the beautiful Colombian Crack (5.7) on Elephant Rock (June 2008).
Leading the very nice Colombian Crack (5.7) on Elephant Rock (June 2008).
Shirley following Colombian Crack (5.7) - a classic pitch on Elephant Rock at City Of Rocks (June 2008).
Shirley leading Rye Crisp (5.8) on Elephant Rock ...a classic and a beautiful route (June 2008).
Shirley leading Rye Crisp (5.8). The ultra-classic City Of Rocks moderate (June 2008).
Shirley leading Rye Crisp (5.8) on the Elephant Rock at the City Of Rocks. A GREAT fun pitch (June 2008).
Elephant Rock in City Of Rocks in Idaho. Climbers can be seen on two lines (a 5.10 on left and a 5.11 on right; June 2008).
Sunday
Shirley starting up Carol's Crack on the Breadloaves formation at the City of Rocks (June 2008).
Shirley leading Carol's Crack (5.8) on The Breadloaves formation in City Of Rocks (June 2008).
Shirley leading Carol's Crack (5.8) on The Breadloaves (June 2008).
Shirley atop the Carol's Crack (5.8) route on the Breadloaves formation at the City of Rocks (June 2008).
Shirley leading Thin Slice (5.10a) on Parking Lot Rock. A stellar climb (June 2008).
Shirley leading Thin Slice (5.10a) on the Parking Lot Rock at City of Rocks (June 2008).
An unknown climber leading Cairo (5.11a...I think that's the route anyway) on Parking Lot Rock. Photo taken from top of Thin Slice (June 2008).
Shirley rapping off from top of Thin Slice on Parking Lot Rock at City of Rocks after her proud send. Unknown formation in background(June 2008).
Blondie resting up on the drive home with her sprained paw (June 2008).
...not! Blondie's rock climbing accident from City Of Rocks (June 2008).
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