Good Day In Vantage | chossclimbers.com

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Summary

Mr. Clean on the Sunshine Wall.

There are those special days when things seem to flow on the rock: no thought of falling, no fear, just controlled movement. Place gear, breathe, execute the thin moves and aim for the rest stance. Repeat. Though rare, they do occur. Shirley and I enjoyed such a rarity one fine March Saturday at the Sunshine Wall in Vantage. Despite our initial feelings upon arriving at the cliff (crowded…we wanted to turn around and drive home), we stuck around and enjoyed a great day of climbing. We warmed up on the decent Steel Grill (5.9). I red pointed the Bob’s Your Uncle line and Shirley sent Air Guitar – easy, but the finishing wideness spit her off on the previous go some years ago. Encouraged by the luck, I got my onsight of Mr. Clean. We stuck around for Sunday but things were cloudy and chilly in the morning and somehow we did not stop driving till we were at the Portland Rock Gym…

Photos

Leading the decent Steel Grill (5.9) on the Sunshine Wall (March 2013).

Starting the lead of Bob’s The Uncle Fucker (5.11a) on the Sunshine Wall (March 2013).

Shirley at the crux of Bob’s Your Uncle (5.11a) route. The girl on the left is leading the very nice Sinsemilla (5.10c). The area classic Stems And Seeds (5.11b) is in the dead center (March 2013).

Shirley at the rest stance just before the crux (finger locks) section of Bob’s Your Uncle (March 2013).

A dog sandwich at the base of the Sunshine wall (March 2013).

Shirley starting up the classic Air Guitar (5.10a) on the Sunshine Wall (March 2013).

Shirley cruising Air Guitar. She had an undeserved respect for the exit wide crack on this line until she led it the second time (it is in fact easy peasy).

Shirley hiking over to the far side of Sunshine Wall. There’s a guy TR-ing Red M&Ms (March 2013).

Leading Mr. Clean (5.11a). Crackmaster Lambada (Shirley’s proud onsight) is the crack on the left (March 2013).

More Mr. Clean on the Sunshine Wall (March 2013).

In the thin of it on Mr. Clean…yes, I know – it feels like a Lower Gorge 5.10c but whatever, I’ll take it (March 2013).

Shirley on Mr. Clean (5.11a) – lots of gear yes, but mostly thin shit (March 2013).

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