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Mosoraski.
An early wake up on day two and at the base of Mosoraski route on Annica Kuk by 8am. This is a 10-pitch line with an original rating of 5c and a new guidebook rating of 6a. Even that latter felt like a sandbag. The route should be thought of as mostly trad with a sprinkling of bolts here and there (and bolted belays) though the crux pitch is bolted more densely. The climbing was pretty good and – with some attention – it was easy enough to stay on route. We were in the shade until the last pitch. We topped out, a bit after noon, into a limestone oven. A hot, uphill hike put us on the summit where the descent trail started. Couple hours later we were chilling on the rocky beaches of the Adriatic, sucking down Euro beers (many labels, one content), and making plans for the next day.
Photos
Anica Kuk’s northwest face from our morning approach to Mosoraski (August 2022).
Shirley nearing the base of Mosoraski in the morning (August 2022).
Looking up at the start of Mosoraski. The 20 inch biner on an equally impressive piton mark the start (click for full res.; August 2022).
Shirley topping out on pitch 1 of Mosoraski (August 2022).
Pitch 2…probably (August 2022).
Another one of Shirley on pitch 2 (August 2022).
Arriving at the second belay (August 2022).
Views across the valley (August 2022).
Shirley on pitch 3 (August 2022).
Views up valley (August 2022).
Starting pitch 4 (August 2022).
Higher on pitch 4 (August 2022).
Shirley on pitch 4 of Mosoraski (August 2022).
Anica Kuk’s north/northwest face in profile (August 2022).
Shirley arriving at the fourth belay (August 2022).
Pitch 5 perhaps (August 2022).
Shirley on pitch 5 (August 2022).
First views of the coast from low on Mosoraski (August 2022).
Arriving at the fifth belay (August 2022).
Up valley views (August 2022).
Starting up pitch 6 which we combined with the short pitch 7 (August 2022).
Shirley following our pitches 6 and 7 (August 2022).
Pitches 6 and 7 (August 2022).
Shirley arriving at the seventh belay; right at the base of the crux pitch (August 2022).
Starting up the crux pitch (#8; August 2022).
Higher on pitch 8. The money section is a polished dihedral that starts to the right of the roof (August 2022).
Shirley starting up the crux pitch 8 of Mosoraski (August 2022).
More of the polished pitch 8 (August 2022).
Nearing the top of pitch 8. I should’ve climbed another 30-40 feet to a good ledge vs. this uncomfortable, semi-hanging belay in narrow slot (August 2022).
Views up valley from near the top of Mosoraski (August 2022).
Shirley on pitch 9 which I ran a bit short (August 2022).
Leading our pitch 10 (August 2022).
Higher on pitch 10 (August 2022).
Shirley on our pitch 10 (part of pitch 9 proper; August 2022).
Topping out on pitch 9 (August 2022).
Shirley topping out on Mosoraski (pitch 10; August 2022).
View up-valley from top of Mosoraski (August 2022).
Shirley at the Mosoraski top out point on Anica Kuk (August 2022).
Looking towards the coast form the top of Mosoraski route (August 2022).
Scrambling over some razor sharp limestone (August 2022).
Shirley hiking up to the summit of Anica Kuk (August 2022).
Two wankers on the summit of Anica Kuk with the Adriatic in the background (August 2022).
Shirley on the hot descent form Anica Kuk (August 2022).
North face of Anica Kuk in profile (August 2022).
How do you say “sandbag” in Croatian?
The nicest looking wall in Paklenica: the north/northwest face of Anica Kuk (August 2022).
In our humble experience, this was the best part of climbing in Paklenica National Park (that fact that the beer is right at the base of many climbs; August 2022).
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