Lower Gorge Spring With Friends

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Summary

Battle Of The Bulge (5.10a) and its crux roof. Shirley is belaying (March 2008).

March 2008. Another fun weekend with the usual basalt crew: Jason,Tracy and Haydar were all there on Saturday and then it was us and Haydar on Sunday. We warmed up on Battle Of The Bulge (10a right of Blood Clot). I recall a tricky mantle right off the ground followed by a touch of bird shit and some really fun climbing higher up (including a cool mini-roof pull). Shirley then led Cruel Sister (10a) and Mantra (10a). I led Old And In The Way (10c).

On Sunday we did Cornercopia (10b) and Hand Job (10b on the east side) and followed Haydar up the brilliant Original Sin (10c).

Photos

Shirley warming up on Cruel Sister (5.10a; March 2008).

Starting up Battle Of The Bulge (5.10a) on the Catwalk Cliff. A trickier than it looks mantle leads to fun (if shit covered) climbing (March 2008).

Leading Battle Of The Bulge (5.10a) below the crux (maybe?) roof (March 2008).

Leading Battle Of The Bulge (5.10a) on the Catwalk Cliff - a somewhat obscure line (judging by all the bat guano covering the rock) nest to some of the busiest lines in the Lower Gorge (March 2008).

Battle Of The Bulge (5.10a) and its crux roof. Shirley is belaying (March 2008).

Shirley starting up Mantra (5.10a; March 2008).

Shirley starting up Mantra (5.10a). This is a short section of sandy face climbing at the bottom (March 2008).

Shirley leading Mantra (5.10a) on the Star Wall (March 2008).

Jason leading St. Paddee's Day (5.10a) belayed by Tracy. Haydar is rapping off of Mantra (5.10a) next door (March 2008).

Our friend Jason belaying Tracy on St. Paddee's Day (5.10a) on the Star Wall in the Lower Gorge (March 2008).

Haydar leading Turning Point (5.10a) on the Star Wall belayed by Shirley (March 2008).

Jason and Blondie sharing route beta in the Lower Gorge (March 2008).

Leading Old And in The Way (5.10c) - this is the second crux of the route (March 2008).

Shirley & Blondie at the base of Old And In The Way (5.10c) in the Lower Gorge (March 2008).

Shirley following Old And In The Way (5.10c) at the first crux (March 2008).

Starting up Cornercopia (5.10b) belayed by Shirley. Exiting the opening crux of the route (March 2008).

The fun section of Cornercopia (5.10b; March 2008).

Starting up Cornercopia (5.10b). This is just the first/opening crux of the route. The other crux (IMHO) happens right before you clip the anchors (March 2008).

Leading Cornercopia (5.10b) on Wildfire Wall (most of which is captured in this shot). This is the poor man's version of Pure Palm (5.11a, just to the right) - though Cornercopia is traditionally protected whereas Pure Palm is bolted (no cracks; March 2008).

Topping out on Cornercopia (5.10b). This is the upper crux (IMHO) where the cracks peter out and the sidewalls of the stem box seem to flare outwards a bit (March 2008).

Haydar getting ready for his battle with Titus, 5.9 wideness crack on Wildfire Wall in Smith's Lower Gorge (March 2008).

Haydar feelin the lovin' squeeze on the opening chimney of Titus (5.9) - a tips to thight hands crack 😉 ....OK, OK - it's an off-width (March 2008).

Our friend Haydar leading Titus (5.9 OW) belayed by Shirley. The route got upgraded to 5.10b R in the new edition Watts' book (March 2008).

Haydar leading Titus (5.9 offwidthness; March 2008).

Starting the lead of Hand Job (5.10b) on the Hand Job Wall. Our friend Haydar is belaying (March 2008).

Leading Hand Job (5.10b) above the opening boulder crux (March 2008).

Haydar leading Original Sin (5.10c) on the Handjob Wall in Smith's Lower Gorge. He's about to get down (or up) into the business end of the root - 20+ feet of #.75 Camalots. Good sh.t & hard route! Monument formation & Crooked River provide the background drama (March 2008).

Our friend Haydar leading Original Sin (5.10c; March 2008).

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