AR 2013

Cruel Sister

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Saturday

Gruff
Shirley starting up Gruff (5.10a).
We headed back to the Lower Gorge at Smith after a year+ break from the place. Shirley got things started on Ferret’s Dead (9) and I led Cretin’s Retreat (10c). Both felt harder than we remembered them…in fact Cretin’s felt harder than the 5.11- lines at Vantage that we’ve done this spring. Shirley then led Gruff (her favorite Gorge 10a), I did led Rim Job (10b…felt easier than before) and Shirley cruised Wildfire (10b). As Bad Finger was occupied, we moved on to Cornercopia (10b) and rounded out the day on Cruel Sister (10a) and Blood Clot (10b…single crux move felt as hard as ever). We talked about doing a couple more lines to make it an even ten but the pull of the margaritas overtook us and we headed out (sufficiently tired as it was).

Sunday

Shakespeare Cliff
Morning tape session at the base of Shakespeare Cliff with our two AR students: Steph & Amory (Apr. 2013).
Sunday was spent following Amory and Steph as part of the Mazamas AR class. Yes, once again in the Lower Gorge which actually had lost some of its charm that day with a large cluster of perma-TRs and loud sprayers at the base of Cruel Sister (though it was nice to run into a couple folks we know from PRG that day). Think we both felt pretty worn out from Saturday. Very enthusiastic set of students though – hope they stick with trad.

Photos

Saturday

The Ferret's Dead
Shirley starting up the first route of the day – The Ferret’s Dead (5.9) on the Parched Cat Cliff. Cretin’s Retreat (5.10c) is the crack on the right (Apr. 2013).

Cretin's Retreat
Leading Cretin’s Retreat (5.10c) on the Parched Cat Cliff – like the more well known Wildfire route only more sustained, longer and harder (Apr. 2013).

Cretin's Retreat
Shirley seconding Cretin’s Retreat (5.10c) – this is the lower crux in my opinion where delicate stemming gets you through a tips-only crack section (Apr. 2013).

Wildfire Wall
Blondie assisting at the base of Wildfire Wall (Apr. 2013).

Gruff
Shirley starting up the pretty Gruff (5.10a) line (Apr. 2013).

Gruff
Shirley cruising her favorite Gorge 5.10- (Apr. 2013).

Rim Job
Starting up Rim Job (5.10b)…perhaps the crux of the route is right here?

Rim Job
Leading the pretty nice Rim Job (5.10b) line on the Wildfire Wall (Apr. 2013).

Wildfire
Shirley starting up the classic Wildfire (5.10b) line (Apr. 2013).

Cornercopia
Leading Cornercopia (5.10b) – this is just past the opening crux of the route (Apr. 2013).

Cruel Sister
Leading Cruel Sister (5.10a) – hello again beautiful it’s been too many years!

Blood Clot
The girls licking their chops at the base of Blood Clot (Apr. 2013).

Blood Clot
Shirley seconding Blood Clot (5.10b) – our 8th and final pitch of the Saturday (Apr. 2013).

Sunday

Shakespeare Cliff
Morning tape session at the base of Shakespeare Cliff with our two AR students: Steph & Amory (Apr. 2013).

Two Gentlemen's Penumonia
Steph starting her lead of Two Gentlemen’s Penumonia (5.7) belayed by Shirley (Apr. 2013).

Ophelia
Amory starting up Ophelia (5.8) on Shakespeare Cliff (Apr. 2013).

Ophelia
Steph starting up Ophelia (5.8) on the Shakespeare Cliff belayed by Shirley (Apr. 2013).

Big Woody
Amory leading the very nice Big Woody (5.9) line on the Shakespeare Cliff (Apr. 2013).

Catwalk Cliff
Catwalk Cliff (and a bit of Wildfire Wall visible on the right) as seen from above the Shakespeare Cliff on the east side (Apr. 2013).

Sleeping Dog
Steph leading the wide-looking (never done it) Sleeping Dog (5.7) route on the Arrington Columns. Shirley belaying (Apr. 2013).

Sleeping Dog
Steph rolling an anchor atop pitch 1 of Sleeping Dog (5.7) on the Arrington Columns (Apr. 2013).

Lost Souls
Amory starting up the (6th pitch?) Lost Souls (5.9) line (Apr. 2013).

Sleeping Dog
Shirley leading “pitch 2” of Sleeping Dog (5.7) on the Arrington Columns. The Wombat is visible high above (Apr. 2013).

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