Lembert Dome.Another late-week business trip to California and an opportunity for some climbing on the weekend. This time went back to Tuolumne Meadows. Climbed the very aesthetic Lucky Streaks (6 pitches, 5.10c/d) on Fairview Dome on Saturday. An excellent route! Though the 10d rating on the third pitch is on the soft side (Supertopo…Croft’s guidebook calls it 10c), little else on the route seemed softly rated. In fact, we both thought that the sustained section of 10a/b corners on the same pitch was the crux of the route – slick, insecure, with some finicky gear and – did I mention? – sustained. On Sunday, we climbed the Direct Northwest Face (4 pitches, 10c) on Lembert Dome. In a way, a polar opposite of the Saturday’s route: not sustained but with the crux being short and stout for me…and just when you think it’s over, you have a fun, one-move wonder of a 5.9 slab to dispatch before the summit. Both days on this trip we took an unorthodox approach to the approaches…instead of waking up early and trying to beat parties to the routes, we’d wake up late, have a sit-down breakfast ( Mammoth Lakes ), get some to-go coffee and finally make the base just shy of lunchtime. OK, so this was more laziness driven rather than some grand strategy. Worked reasonably well though it did involve some waiting around.
Pics
Saturday
Starting up Lucky Streaks – 5.6 to 5.9 edges/slab to more 5.6. Only non-sustained pitch of the route (Sept. 2014). The start of the short crux section (Sept. 2014). Shirley on pitch 1 of Lucky Streaks (Sept. 2014). Pitch 2 of Lucky Streaks (Sept. 2014). The ~20 foot 5.10- upper portion of pitch 2. There’s a party of friendly Utahans above us (Sept. 2014). Pitch 2. Another friendly party (PNW/CA transplants) is below. We actually enjoyed ourselves on the route – shooting the shit with the climbers above and below us…a fun social experience made more pleasant by the nice guys sharing the route with us (Sept. 2014). Shirley entering the 10a fingers section of pitch 2 (Sept. 2014). Looking towards Daff Dome from somewhere on Lucky Streaks (Sept. 2014). Topping out on pitch 2 (Sept 2014). Just above the 10c/d crux on pitch 3. Actually this section was not bad; the sustained 10a/b terrain above felt much more demanding (Sept. 2014). Starting the sustained 10- portion of pitch 3 (Sept. 2014). Shirley just above the (so called) crux of pitch 3…and about to start the real crux on some snot-slick rock (Sept. 2014). Shirley almost done with pitch 3 (Sept. 2014). Topping out on pitch 3 (Sept. 2014). Daff Dome from high on Lucky Streaks (Sept. 2014). Shirley on pitch 4 of Lucky Streaks. Look at that knobby granite…pretty unique I think to Tuolumne Meadows (Sept. 2014). Johnny (leader) and Nate of SLC on pitch 5 of Lucky Streaks (Sept. 2014). Pitch 4 top out (Sept. 2014). Pitch 5 traverse. If you go by Croft guidebook rating of 5.8, you’ll be surprised I think (Sept. 2014). The traverse is followed by some sustained and funky (crack, face, groove) 5.9 terrain (Sept. 2014). Looking down pitch 5 of Lucky Streaks (Sept. 2014). Shirley topping out on pitch 5 of Lucky Streaks (Sept. 2014). Pitch 6 (last) of Lucky Streaks. Good, moderate climbing – better than it looks from the belay. With a 70 meter rope, we ran it all the way to the top (Sept. 2014). Looking down from just below the top out on pitch 6 (Sept. 2014). Shirley topping out on Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome (Sept. 2014). Matthes Crest (maybe…) from the “top” of Fairview Dome (Sept. 2014). Hiking down the class 2/3 slabs on the backside of Fairview Dome (Sept. 2014). Shirley hiking off Fairview Dome (Sept. 2014). Unknown party on pitch 3 (crux) of Lucky Streaks as seen from the base (Sept. 2014). Looking up at Lucky Streaks from the base (Sept. 2014).
Sunday
Shirley on the short approach to the Direct Northwest Face route (left) on Lembert Dome (Sept. 2014). Waiting at the base of Lembert Dome (Sept. 2014). Cathedral Peak from the base of Direct Northwest Face route on Lembert Dome (Sept. 2014). Leading pitch 2 of Direct Northwest Face – a series of slab and pin scar moves…kind of different (Sept. 2014). Shirley above the crux of pitch 2 of Direct Northwest Face (Sept. 2014). Starting the lead of pitch 3 – 5.6 crack to a short 5.10a section (Sept. 2014). Shirley on pitch 3 of Direct Northwest Face – 5.6 crack to a short 10a section (Sept. 2014). Pluto as seen from Direct Northwest Face on Lembert (Sept. 2014). More pitch 3 (Sept. 2014). The crux 2 moves at the top of pitch 3 (Sept. 2014). The crux on pitch 4 in all of its short glory. Smile pussycat! Looking back at Shirley from just above the short crux on pitch 4 of Direct Northwest Face (Sept. 2014). Views from the top of Direct Northwest Face on Lembert Dome (Sept. 2014). When you think the climbing is all over, you encounter this short 5.9 slab move just below the summit. Fun route! Shirley topping out on Lembert Dome…is that Cathedral Peak in the background? Top of Lembert Dome (Sept. 2014). Hiking the summit ridge of Lembert to the easy/long descent option (Sept. 2014).
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