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Summary
View of Mt. Shasta from the top of the second pitch on Cosmic Wall (August 9, 2003).
In August of 2003, Shirley & I drove down south to climb the
Cosmic Wall (II 5.6) on Mount Hubris in the Castle Crags of northern California. Fun climbing in a beautiful setting. Some of the pitches have pretty poor pro (pitch 1 and 3 come to mind) but climbing is easy. Also, the last pitch as the Laird guidebook suggests (5.6 chimney) seemed harder esp. when you compare it to other 5.6 pitches on the route. This is the crux of the climb. We rapped off the summit in one shot with two 60m ropes. My wife and I had the mountain to ourselves. The only people we saw all day (and that’s a Saturday in mid-August!) was a group of hikers down below.
Photos
Cosmic Wall route overview. Pitch numbers indicated at the top of each pitch (for pitches 1 - 5 that are visible in the photo). Note that belays number 2 and 3 are bolted. All other belays require a gear anchor (incl. slinging trees/bushes). With exception of belay #3, all belay stations are on comfy ledges. Pitch six (short and the crux if you take the chimney option) is out of view. Descent is via a long rap off the top followed by a scramble down the easy gully visible on right (August 9, 2003).
Shirley hiking down after our climb of Cosmic Wall on Mount Hubris. Castle Dome with its proud (& intimidating) East Face looms in background (August 2003).
Shirley atop pitch 1 (I think) of Cosmic Wall on Mount Hubris. Castle Dome is in background (Aug. 2003).
View of Mt. Shasta from the top of the second pitch on Cosmic Wall (August 9, 2003).
Shirley seconding pitch three of Cosmic Wall (August 9, 2003).
View of Castle Dome from third pitch belay on Cosmic Wall. Observation Deck is the minor rock outcrop in the foreground. It is there that the approach to Mt. Hubris leaves the main trail and heads essentially corss country toward east face of Hubris. The ridge you're bushwhacking along on the approach is in the very foreground (August 9, 2003).
Leading pitch five of Cosmic Wall (August 9, 2003).
Shirley coming up the chimney onto the summit of Mt. Hubris (August 9, 2003).
Shirley on the summit of Mt. Hubris with Shasta in background (Aug. 2003).
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