Go back to Tasmania.
Go back to Bruny Island.
Candlestick and Totem Pole.
The Candlestick stands behind The Tote. The sea heaving and surging between them caresses the rock walls like a hot lover. The water isn’t that hot though, pretty freezing really, but hey, you didn’t walk all this way for some kind of disco-party.
The Tasmanian Climbing Guide book
.
Normal Route.
After a 90 minute approach hike, we found ourselves looking at the two formations from the mainland. High intimidation factor! First, the place is a wind tunnel and the sea provides an incessant and angry thudding. Second, after 15 minutes of looking we finally saw the promised fixed anchor on the Candlestick that we’d have to use to get back to the mainland via a tyrolean traverse. Holy shit – not only are they about 40 meters away laterally but about 15 or so meters above the anchors on the mainland. This would not be an issue with three ropes but with our two…someone was in for a zip line ride down with a highly uncertain landing. I have to say that we were happy to have another party of climbers there for some lightening of the mood. Dave and Caroline were going for the Free Route on The Tote.
.
Normal Route.
Standing there on a small ledge at the base of The Stick wearing my wet fruit-of-the-looms, I shivered uncontrollably while Shirley dragged herself and our gear across on the fixed line. When she was about halfway across, something popped out of the water and startled the hell out of us. It took a couple of seconds to realize that we were looking at the face of a curious, large seal. We pulled the tyrolean rope, I got dressed and we started climbing. Though the book makes the route sound like some 5.7 gully, the first two pitches were vertical with some overhanging bulges that felt peculiarly like mid 5.10s…pretty aesthetic crack climbing (fingers to fists) on good rock actually. The third 5.6ish pitch brought us to the fixed anchors where Shirley left our tether to the mainland fixed and we did the final (5.9ish) pitch to the summit.
.
Happy to be done.
Despite a good forecast, we took a rest day.
Photos
Approaching the tip of Cape Hauy where the stacks are located (Dec. 2014).
The Monument sea stack …100 meter swim or paddle required to access. Perhaps someday (Dec. 2014).
Dave and Caroline at the starting belay for The Tote in the notch of doom as we’re rapping in (Dec. 2014).
Pitch 0 of the Normal Route on The Candlestick – a 10 meter freestyle through surging water…current strong enough to have nearly removed my fruit of the looms. Once I was out, a curious seal popped her head out of the water startling the shit out of me (Dec. 2014).
Dave starting up the first pitch of The Free Route on The Tote (Dec. 2015).
Shirley on the dry footed crossing from the mainland to the base of The Candlestick (while I shiver). Caroline Viner – thank you!!
Leading pitch 1 of the Normal Route (Dec. 2014).
Shirley belaying me on the first pitch of the Normal Route on The Candlestick. Photo credit: Caroline Viner (Dec. 2014).
“Take the chimney/gully….follow the easiest looking way to the summit. It’s about grade 16…” Seems that’s Aussie for vertical finger to fist crack climbing (Dec. 2014).
Looking back at Shirley at the base of the Normal Route (Dec. 2014).
Shirley on pitch 1 of the Normal Route (Dec. 2014).
The view (towards Fortescue Bay) from top of pitch 1 (Dec. 2014).
More pitch 1 action (Dec. 2014).
Pitch two of the Normal Route – more aesthetic crack climbing including some wideness (not 16).
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 2 (Dec. 2014).
More views towards Fortescue Bay from high on The Candlestick (Dec. 2014).
Shirley enjoying the wideness on pitch 2 of The Candlestick (Dec. 2014).
Looking at Dave and Caroline atop the Totem Pole from pitch 3 belay on The Candlestick (Dec. 2014).
Dave on the tyrolean back to mainland from the Totem Pole. View is from the starting point of our tyrolean…we’re both aiming for the same anchors (Dec. 2014).
Shirley on pitch 4 (final) of The Candlestick (Dec. 2014).
Views from the summit of The Candlestick…think that’s The Monument stack (Dec. 2014).
Shirley tagging the summit. Now for the sphincter clenching descent…
Shirley on the long (~45m) tyrolean traverse from The Candlestick to the mainland (Dec. 2014).
More tyrolean action. Photo by Caroline Viner.
Shirley on the tyrolean with the Totem Pole below (Dec. 2014).
Shirley flying high over the Totem Pole during her tyrolean traverse. Photo by Carline Viner (thank you!!).
Getting ready for the invigorating tirolean from The Candlestick (Dec. 2014).
Yours truly on the tyrolean back to the mainland….with a ~15 meter vertical differential, it had some lively moments for me. Photo credit: Caroline Viner.
Almost done…
Happy to be done with The Candlestick…well, I’m doubly happy at not having shit myself on the 45 meter tyrolean. Photo credit: Caroline Viner.
Hiking out along Cape Hauy with Dave and Caroline who have just ticked the Free Route on The Tote. The Monument stack is on the left (Dec. 2014).
Go to Ben Lomond 1.
Go back to Tasmania.