Shirley on the 5.7 hand traverse around a block on pitch two of White Satin. The climber on the right side of photo is below and just east of Asterisk Pass (July 9, 2005).With shitty forecast for the mountains, Shirley & I headed to Smith in early July of 2005. We climbed two Jeff Thomas classics on a nice Saturday: White Satin (5.9; from 1974) & Solar (5.9; Jeff Thomas FFA from 1977). The former is a well-established three pitch trad classic while the latter is a relative obscurity (2.5 pitches long). We did Solar the proper way via its original 5.8 trad start (easy, solid, good pro) vs. the sport line, Phone Call From Satan. Is all.
Photos
White Satin
Leading the retro-bolted approach pitch for White Satin (July 2005). Shirley topping out on pitch one of White Satin - a retrobolted 5.6 chimney (same as pitch one of Sky Chimney). Crooked River can be seen below (July 9, 2005). Leading pitch two of White Satin (5.7). The curving dihedral above and on the left is pitch three (5.8). Pitch two of Sky Chimney follows the crack/dihedral to my right (July 9, 2005). The east face (southeast prow I guess) of The Christian Brothers formation as seen from White Satin. Monkey Face is also showing though (July 2005). Higher on pitch 2 of White Satin. This one rated 5.chunk (July 2005). Views from White Satin: on the left are The Dihedrals, followed by Morning Glory Wall, the West and East Ships, and Ship Rock (July 2005). More Smith scenery from the top of pitch 1 of White Satin. This here be the southern prow of Christian Brothers (July 2005). Shirley checking out the spooky block you need to manhandle on pitch 2 of White Satin...I swear: it creaked under my heavy ass (July 2005). Shirley on the 5.7 hand traverse around a block on pitch two of White Satin. The climber on the right side of photo is below and just east of Asterisk Pass (July 9, 2005). Shirley on volcanic tuff - nearing top of P2 of White Satin (July 9, 2005). Daddy starting up the money pitch (#3) of White Satin (July 2005). Yours truly dry humping the beautiful crack on pitch 3 of White Satin (July 2005). Shirley belaying me on pitch three of White Satin. You can either belay off of two beefy bolts (these mark the top of a variation pitch two) or off of gear in the crack on the left side of photo (July 9, 2005). Leading pitch three of White Satin through the crux bulge (~5.8). Great pitch and the reason to do this route (July 9, 2005). Looking back down towards Shirley from the top of the third (& final) pitch of White Satin (July 2005). Shirley topping out on White Satin (third pitch; July 2005).
Solar
Solar on the West Ship formation as seen from White Satin (5.8) on Smith Rock Group. First pitch shown is the Phonecall From Satan (5.9 sport) variation; standard pitch 1 traverses in from the right side gully. East Ship is the first formation right of West Ship. Morning Glory Wall lies to the left of West Ship - there's a giant "gash" (a dihedral actually, Lion's Chair 5.11a R) in its center on the lower half. Four Horsemen lie left of Morning Glory. Dark brown spire on the right is the Shiprock. Crooked River is below (July 9, 2005). Leading the original pitch 1 of Solar - a traverse in from the left onto the river face of West Ship. Nice 5.8 (July 9, 2005). Daddy fondling what he'll soon find out is the crux of pitch 2 of Solar (July 2005). Leading pitch 2 of Solar. The crux thin fingers crack (yeah, the laced up one) is clearly visible down low. The nice 5.9 dihedral towers above (July 9, 2005). Shirley belaying from the Phonecall From Satan anchors on Solar (July 9, 2005). Shirley seconding the nice dihedral on pitch 2 of Solar (5.9; July 2005). Shirley nearing the top of pitch 3 of Solar - a very nice 5.9 dihedral (July 9, 2005). Shirley topping out on pitch 3 of Solar. Rope-De-Dope Block is below across the Crooked River (July 9, 2005).
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