North Face Of Burgundy

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Quick Summary

Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire and Burgundy Col.

Shirley & I climbed the North Face route (III 5.8) on Burgundy Spire as an overnighter trip in July of 2006. We camped at the ~6600′ benches and had Blondie with us. I recall that we did some route finding on the upper third of this line, including some sketchy slab and a 5.8+ chimney (the highlight of the day!). Also, somehow Blondie managed to untie her bowline knot with Yosemite finish & get loose while waiting for us at the base. No worries though as she is not a big fan of staying outdoors overnight sans tent and so she simply bullshitted with climbers passing thru. the saddle (confirmed later by a Mazama group led by a friend of ours coming off Silver Star Mtn.) and then went to sleep in the exact same spot where we left her tied off. Come to think of it, we actually met another group of our friends at the base that morning.

Photo Essay

Burgundy Spire

Shirley on the approach hike to Burgundy (Jul. 2006).


Burgundy Spire

Shirley and Blondie hiking up to Burgundy Spire (Jul. 2006).


Burgundy Spire

Shirley on approach to Burgundy Spire (Jul. 2006).


Burgundy Spire

The east faces of the Liberty Bell Group from high on the approach trail to Burgundy Spire (Jul. 2006).


Burgundy Spire

Shirley and Blondie taking a union break on approach to Burgundy (Jul. 2006).


Burgundy Spire

Shirley and Blondie chilling in camp before our climb (Jul. 2006).


Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire and Burgundy Col (start of the North Face route) on the left from near our camp (July 2006).


Burgundy Spire

Shirley and Blondie (& daddy) sharing a small tent (Jul. 2006).


Burgundy Spire

Somebody loving the tent..& the sleeping bags (Jul. 2006).


Burgundy Spire

Softness...


Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire (west face) from our camp at a bench at ~6400 feet. Paisano Pinnacle is also clearly visible in foreground though it tends to blend in with the taller Burgundy (July 15, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Shirley belaying a pitch up the North Face route on Burgundy (Jul. 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

The North Face route above the Paisano-Burgundy Col. From my position, straight up to the left edge of a large ledge system 150 feet beneath the summit block (July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Shirley on the chunky mid-5th terrain of the North Face route on Burgundy. Paisano Pinnacle summit ridgeline is in the upper left corner of photo. Route comes up via the obvious gully center/top of photo. It then traverses the golden sand left in photo to the Paisano Col and skirts up the flakey rock to where Shirley is (July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Beginning the pitch leading to the large ledge 150 feet below summit. Rock is a little chunky but it all gets better the higher you go (July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Nearing the top of the pitch that leads to the large ledge ~150 feet below the summit (Jul. 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Shirley topping out on the large ledge 150 feet below the summit. North Face of Burgundy Spire (Jul. 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Shirley on the large ledge system (contemplating where to go next) directly beneath the summit block (west side) with Vasiliki Ridge in background (July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

One of the best pitches on the route (unfortunately probably an off-route pitch as we found out on the subsequent pitch 🙂 - a 20 foot 5.7-ish slab to a 5.8-ish OW crack. In absence of pro, chalk up generously (July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Shirley on the off-route (??) lichen traverse 120 feet below the summit of Brugundy Spire. Harley-sized slabs teetering and moving with the slightest applied pressure.....a bit loose. The 5.8 OW crack is on left (July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

The 5.8 chimney on the summit block. From top of this pitch we did one more (mostly due to rop drag) to reach the summit. This was one of the best pitches on this route and felt comparable to the chimney pitch on South Face of Prusik Peak (here). Better view of same chimney here (July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Shirley on the last pitch before the summit on Burgundy's North Face route (July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Daddy on the summit of Burgundy Spire after our climb of the North Face route (Jul. 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Looking W/NW from the summit of Burgundy Spire. North Cascades Hwy. is below with our car (some 4000+ feet below) in the red circle. Liberty Bell Group is on the far left; Tower Mountain is on the right (left of the two peaks next to each other; July 16, 2006).


North Face (Burgundy Spire)

Shirley on the summit of Burgundy Spire. This is looking roughly NW towards North Cascades Hwy. and the impressive Tower Mountain in the background (July 16, 2006).

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