Sedona And Cochise

Sedona Header

Go back to Sedona.
Go back to Cochise Stronghold.

Summary

Oak Creek Spire
Oak Creek Spire.

In February of 2007, Shirley & I flew to Phoenix for a couple (literally) days of climbing. On Saturday, we climbed the Oak Creek Spire via its North Face – West Cracks (5.9+) line. The most memorable part of that outing was the wild step across (though most are not tall enough to step & in fact have to jump the gap…thankfully I am sufficiently tall) just below the spire’s summit. We have actually attempted this climb back in 2005 but could not find our way to the base of the tower through the new (relative to guidebook) suburban sprawl of Sedona. This time we were armed with superior approach beta and had no issues. On Saturday evening, we drove down to the West Cochise Stronghold and climbed The Peacemaker, a new 5.10a line on The Sheepshead that’s 7 pitches long and pretty much a sport climb (think I did bring a rack and might have placed a cam or two…mostly because our beta on it was sparse). A nice line – some slabs, some crimping, great setting. We hiked out just as the storm was brewing and made our evening flight out of Phoenix (but just barely).

Photos

Oak Creek Spire
Oak Creek Spire from approach. North Face route starts from the saddle behind the spire. Southwest corner visible (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley on the approach hike (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Oak Creek Spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
North face of Oak Creek Spire. North Face – West Cracks route is on the right obviously (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
A closer look at pitches 2 and 3 (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Leading pitch 1 of North Face – West Cracks route on Oak Creek Spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Views from the route (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley finishing pitch 1 of North Face – West Cracks line via the easy slot (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
The steep and thin (and hard) start of pitch 2 of North Face – West Cracks line on Oak Creek Spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
More views from the route (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Leading the flared chimney on pitch 2 of North Face – West Cracks line on Oak Creek Spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley on pitch 2 (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley in the flared chimney on pitch 2 of North Face – West Cracks route on Oak Creek Spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Into the choss squeeze! Careful – don’t drop any blocks on your belayer’s head. This is the start of our pitch 3 – in fact, if you do break pitches 2 and 3, you should belay right after/above this squeeze. There you’ll have a nice big & flat ledge (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley getting ready to start pitch 3 (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shadow of the spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley topping out on pitch 3 of North Face – West Cracks route (a fun pitch). This puts you on top of the lower rabbit ear (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Topping out on pitch 3 (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley on the sub-summit (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Looking west through the chimney that splits the towers (this is what you’re jumping across). Courthouse Butte is visible (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Looking at the jump across move that marks the start of pitch 4 of North Face – West Cracks route. This is the summit of the lower rabbit ear and one needs to get across this gap to top out on the higher ear (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
You sure about this shit?
Oak Creek Spire
Looking back across the chasm towards Shirley at the belay (atop the lower rabbit ear; Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Leading the steep but easy ground on the final pitch of North Face – West Cracks line on Oak Creek Spire. This is just beyond the chasm crossing (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Views from just below the summit (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley topping out on Oak Creek Spire via North Face – West Cracks route (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Summit views (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley on the summit of Oak Creek Spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Summit register (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Summit register atop Oak Creek spire. What is this curious device I found in there?
Oak Creek Spire
Summit views (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Starting the descent with the shadow of the tower in the background (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley rapping down the route. Pitches 2 and 3 of North Face – West Cracks line are visible here (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Oak Creek Spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Shirley on the hike down (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Oak Creek Spire (Feb. 2007).
Oak Creek Spire
Pure fire (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
The west/southwest face of The Sheepshead as seen from the approach. The tallest aspect of this face hosts Absinthe Of Mallet and Peacemaker. Muttonhead is on the left and the Crisis Center formation is on the right (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
The west/southwest face of The Sheepshead (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Leading the opening slab on pitch 1 of Peacemaker route. Route essentially goes straight up with minimal meandering (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Higher on pitch 1 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Nearing the first belay (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley starting up pitch 1 of Peacemaker (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
More views from Sheepshead (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Pitch 1 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley in the finishing chimney of pitch 1 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Starting up pitch 2 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Leading pitch 2 of Peacemaker – this might be just past the route’s crux moves. Thought it was harder than it looked from below (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley starting up pitch 2 of Peacemaker (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Pretty views from Peacemaker (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
More of Shirley on pitch 2 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley at the second belay (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Starting up pitch 3 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Leading pitch 3 of Peacemaker. Well bolted as is the rest of this line (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Views from the route (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Starting up pitch 4 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley on pitch 4 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Pitch 4 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley on pitch 4 of Peacemaker line on Sheepshead Dome (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley topping out on pitch 4 of Peacemaker on Sheepshead Dome (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Starting up pitch 5 of Peacemaker – more slabs and crimps (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley on pitch 5 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Pitch 6 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley arriving atop pitch 6 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
A comfy belay atop a huge ledge (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Looking back at Shirley from the lead of pitch 7 (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Views from the summit of Sheepshead (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley topping out on Sheepshead Dome via Peacemaker line in high winds. View is roughly southwest (Feb. 2006).
Peacemaker
More summit views (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
View north from the summit of Sheepshead toward Muttonhead Dome (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Back at the base (Nov. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley hiking down as dark clouds build (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
The Sheepshead (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
Shirley hiking out after our climb of Peacemaker. There’s a storm moving in. We had just enough time to get to the car and pack our stuff before the sky opened up (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
The Sheepshead (Feb. 2007).
Peacemaker
On the drive out (Feb. 2007).

Go back to Sedona.
Go back to Cochise Stronghold.