Condor

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Leading Condor (5.10c) on the Smith Rock Group.

In March of 2008, we spent a day in Smith with our friend Jason and his dog Chuck. We climbed Toy Blocks (5.10a), Toys In The Attic (5.9) and Condor (5.10c). This last one was a nice route that probably does not get done too often even though it’s surrounded by some popular classics (eg. Phoenix Buttress lines, White Satin etc.). I thought the technical crux was on the lower half below the slight roof. But the crack above the mini roof becomes pumpy up higher. A tad loose on the upper part (above obvious midway ledge).

Photos

Toy Blocks

Leading Toy Blocks (5.10a) - a nice (Jeff Thomas I believe) trad line in a sea of sport routes (March 2008).

Charlie soaking up the early spring sunshine at the base of Toy Blocks on the Christian Brothers (March 2008).

Nearing the top on Toy Blocks...some hollow sounding flakes but nothing gave way (March 2008).

Toys In The Attic

Our friend Jason leading Toys In The Attic (5.9; March 2008).

Dog and rope sandwich at the base of Toys In The Attic (March 2008).

The east face of the Christian Brothers formation as seen from the base of Condor on the Smith Rock Group (March 2008).

Leading Condor (5.10c) on the Smith Rock Group. This is a single pitch crack obscurity. Reaching the roof is the technical crux while pulling it is the physical crux (IMHO). Credit for photos goes to Jason (thanks man! March 2008).

Leading Condor (5.10c) on the Smith Rock Group. This single pitch line likely does not see much traffic though the climbing is very good (and rock is solid...at least on the hard parts)! Shirley is belaying & thanks (& photo credit) go to our friend Jason for taking some great shots of this route (March 2008)!

The midpoint ledge on Condor (5.10c; March 2008).

Leading Condor (5.10c) on the Smith Rock Group. Shirley is belaying & our friend Jason is straightening our collective mutts (March 2008). Photo Credit goes to Mark D. - thank you very much!

Leading the upper (easier) portion of the Condor pitch above the midway ledge (March 2008).

Finishing the lead of Condor on the Smith Rock Group. Shirley's belaying & Chuck is chilling next to Jason on the right. I've marked the teetering large block withe the X - however it was hard for me NOT to step on it....just be sure to ask you belayer to step back as far as they can (March 2008).

Topping out on Condor (March 2008).

Chuck (the dog) talking trash about my failure to onsight Condor. Even his owner Jason (on left) was stunned at the type of language used!

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