Epinephrine

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Epinephrine

In the chimneys of Epinephrine.

In early May of 2005, we got a chance to try Epinephrine and ended up failing on it…lack of water, blah, blah, blah…Bailed from four pitches up. We returned a few weeks later. Original plan was to climb in the Sierras but apparently ’05 winter was a record setter and a shitload of snow was lingering in the high country. Drove from LA to Red Rocks, slept somewhere in the car along the way and set things right on Epi the next day. Great route of course! Friendly chimneys, great pro all the way, and a summit to top things off. On Sunday, we found ourselves lacking in motivation and so we did the tourist thing in Death Valley and then drove back to LA.

Photos

Black Velvet Wall

Black Velvet Wall at sunrise in June of 2004.


Epinephrine

Shirley getting ready for a day in the oven at the base of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Leading pitch 1 of Epinephrine...much of the route visible above (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley nearing the top of pitch 1 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Checking out the hard looking squeeze chimney low on pitch three of Epinephrine. The Supertopo recommended (and I followed) climbing up via right side (stemming around a huge, thin flake). The going there was reasonable and well protected. About 20 feet above where I am, you jump into the (wider at that point) chimney on the left. I thought the pitch was a notch easier than the next one despite same (5.9) rating (May 22, 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley following pitch 3 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley in the pitch 3 chimney on Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley nearing the belay on pitch 3 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Beginning the lead of pitch four of Epinephrine. Slick but relatively easy chimney with a great handcrack at the back (you can actually climb this lower section as a crack if you prefer). The second from the party ahead of us is beginning the crux section of the pitch where the chimney narrows down and the grovelling begins... (May 22, 2005).


Epinephrine

Looking back towards Shirley from the start of pitch 4 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Starting the lead of pitch 4 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Leading pitch 4 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley following pitch four of Epinephrine ~150 feet bleow the belay ledge. Stellar chimney climbing (May 22, 2005)!


Epinephrine

Shirley nearing the top of the fourth pitch on Epinephrine. This is the fun hand crack (OW for Shirley; May 22, 2005).


Epinephrine

Leading pitch 5 of Epinephrine...the last of the chimney pitches (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Leading pitch 5 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Looking back towards Shirley from pitch 5 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley arriving on the Black Tower...I think...this would be top of pitch 5 (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Unknown climber (red circle) atop the Black Tower on Epinephrine. Top of the tower marks the end of the chimney pitches (on opposite side of the tower) and a transition to largely face climbing. View is up Black Velvet Canyon. Photo taken from Sour Mash (Nov. 2007).


Epinephrine

Leading the nice face climbing pitch just above the Black Tower (first one above the chimneys; May 2005).


Epinephrine

Leading pitch 7 ...this is I think the Elephant Trunk (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley following pitch 7 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley following the seventh pitch of Epinephrine. This is the first 5.9 face/crack pitch above the chimneys and probably the steepest (my opinion). There's a finger crack near top of this pitch - or a great hand crack for Shirley. Top of Black Tower (white in color) is below as is the start of the route. This is a beautifully exposed pitch where you get a view of the lower pitches directly under your feet - the tiny bushes below mark the beginning of the route some 750 feet below (May 27, 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley topping out on pitch 7 of Epinephrine (May 2005).


Epinephrine

Leading pitch 8 of Epinephrine (May 2008).


Epinephrine

Shirley stemming up the 5.8 dihedral/finger crack on pitch nine of Epinephrine. Approach wash is over 1000 feet directly below; upper reaches of Black Velvet Wall (Prince of Darkness Wall) are on the right (May 27, 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley stemming up the 5.8 dihedral/finger crack on pitch nine of Epinephrine. Approach wash is over 1000 feet directly below; upper reaches of Black Velvet Wall (a.k.a. Prince of Darkness Wall) are on the right (May 27, 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley stemming up the 5.8 dihedral/finger crack on pitch nine of Epinephrine. Approach wash is over 1000 feet directly below; upper reaches of Black Velvet Wall (Prince of Darkness Wall) are on the right (May 27, 2005).


Epinephrine

Leading through the roof on pitch ten of Epinephrine (May 29, 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley just above the 5.9 roof on pitch 10 of Epinephrine. I think the belay station bolts above the roof might be gone (or I was tired and missed them?). This doesn't really matter as it's trivial to find a place for a trad anchor. About 1300 feet below is the bottom of Black Velvet Canyon and the approach wash. On the right, there's the Black Velvet Wall (a.k.a. Prince of Darkness Wall) and further on the right is the Whiskey Peak (subsummit of BV Peak; May 29, 2005).


Epinephrine

Shirley topping out on the start of the exit ramp on Epinephrine (May 29, 2005).


Epinephrine

Leading the low 5th class pitch 12 at the beginning of the ramp near top of Epinephrine. About 600 to 700 feet left to the typical unroping spot. Summit of Black Velvet Peak is above and on the left (May 29, 2005).


Epinephrine

Top of (roughly) pitch 13 of Epinephrine. This is near the top of the low 5th class ramp at a point where it narrows down, crests, and turns the corner. One pitch of 4th class terrain (a narrow cat-walk) left to unroping spot. Below in the background are Blue Diamond, NV and Las Vegas further back. This is a cool little perch in the sky (May 29, 2005).


Epinephrine

Epinephrine in new rock shoes equals orange feet at the end of the day (May 2005).

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