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About The Climb
Castle Valley.
Sister Superior.
I don’t remember much from this weekend. Guess we flew to SLC on a Friday night. Guess we climbed Jah Man on Saturday. Not sure what happened on Sunday? Weather? Failed attempt on something? Not sure. I do recall that the route gave us some difficulty but was very aesthetic. Stellar views of Castle Valley. Received bad news when we got home.
.
Yours truly, our friend Pat (rest in peace), Shirley, and Blondie on Borah Peak (Memorial Day 2002).
We met Patrick in the first mountaineering class we have ever taken. The class was a new experience for all of us. Little did we know that climbing would not only become our hobby but a way of life for all of us! Patrick loved the great outdoors and quickly fell in love with alpine climbing. He was always up for an adventure – be it small or big – if it involved being outdoors in the wilderness. We have subsequently climbed many peaks and routes together and have always enjoyed his cheerful company. Patrick’s interests went beyond climbing. He was the lead guitarist for a local rock band (Spontaneous Woo) and volunteered much of his free time helping others learn mountaineering in the local climbing club. Patrick was also an avid photographer. Some of his outstanding work can be seen on his website.
The normally clear, blue skies of Utah desert we have come to love were so appropriately gray and subdued on that April 10th day – as if foreshadowing to us the news of this tragedy. It was our privilege to have known and climbed with Patrick. He will be very much missed by us and the scores of friends he effortlessly made during his all-too short life. Rest in peace Patrick.
Photos
Castle Valley from near the River Road (April 2005).
Priest and Rectory blending together on the left and Castleton Tower on the right.
Sister Superior (rightmost) and the other sisters in the group (Apr. 2005).
Sister Superior Tower as seen from the south. The flat face in the photo is the SW face where the 5-pitch Jah Man route climbs to the summit.
Gearing up for Jah Man. Castleton Tower (on right), The Priest and The Rectory are in the background (April 10, 2005).
Leading pitch one of Jah Man above the 5.9 mantle move – one move but fairly tough. Squeeze chimney of pitch two is above. There’s much loose blocks on the ledge I’m on – don’t drop anything on your belayer’s head (April 10, 2005).
Shirley topping out on the short (~40 foot) pitch one of Jah Man. In the background is Parriot Mesa. On its extreme right side is Crooked Arrow Spire (slightly detached from the mesa) with its Longbow Chimney 5.8 A0 route (April 10, 2005).
Leading the Sister Squeeze – a 5.8 chimney on pitch two of Jah Man. The only tricky part here is getting into the chimney – blue Alien protects this move just don\’t slip (ankle buster) since the ledge is right there (April 10, 2005).
Looking down from near the top of the 60-foot Sister Squeeze chimney of pitch two of Jah Man. Shirley is belaying me from a nice ledge atop pitch one. Pro in the chimney is sparse but adequate – there seems to be little danger of actually falling down – making upward progress is the tricky part (April 10, 2005).
Shirley exiting the Sister Squeeze chimney of pitch two of Jah Man (April 10, 2005).
Reaching the crux low on pitch three of Jah Man. My left foot is on this exciting little (& somewhat famous) flake that flexes a couple of inches and sounds really solid. Photo taken April 10, 2005.
Looking down towards the belay from just past the crux of pitch three (and the route?) of Jah Man. Laced up the initial fingers to thin hands crack nicely! Shirley is belaying me on the nice ledge atop the Sister Squeeze chimney of pitch two (April 10, 2005).
Looking down at pitch three of Jah Man. Shirley is near the crux traverse low on the pitch. The ramp of the easier upper half of the pitch (5.8-5.9) is on the left. The pitch is vertical (April 10, 2005).
Shirley beginning the upper half of pitch three of Jah Man – an easier ramp (5.8-5.9). This is the only place where you might use larger cams (where I used the #3 Camalot and #4 C4 the latter being not really necessary). Photo taken April 10, 2005.
Looking down from the lead of pitch 4 of Jah Man. Shirley is belaying me from yet another comfy ledge with bolts. The low angle ramp (5.8-5.9) of pitch three is visible directly at Shirley’s feet. The pitch is vertical. For a shot looking up from Shirley’s belay see here. Base of route is ~160 feet below Shirley (April 10, 2005).
Leading pitch 4 of Jah Man – thin hands (#0.75 – #1 Camalot…so very thin for me!!!). I’m above the initial 30 foot crux of the pitch but the going did not seem to ease up that much (April 10, 2005).
Looking down from the lead of pitch 4 of Jah Man. Shirley is belaying me from yet another comfy ledge with bolts. The low angle ramp (5.8-5.9) of pitch three is visible directly at Shirley’s feet. The pitch is vertical. For a shot looking up from Shirley’s belay see here. Base of route is ~160 feet below Shirley (April 10, 2005).
Shirley atop the fourth pitch of Jah Man (Apr. 2005).
Shirley on the final crimpy moves of Jah Man right below the summit of Sister Superior (Apr. 2005).
Shirley arriving on the summit of Sister Superior with The Priest and The Rectory in the background view (Apr. 2005).
Yours truly on the summit of Sister Superior with the Adobe Mesa in the background (Apr. 2005).
Shirley on the summit of Sister Superior with The Convent Mesa in the background (& the Colorado River; Apr. 2005).
The view south from the summit of Sister Superior (looking ~south): Adobe Mesa is on the left, The Priest and The Rectory are in the center, Castleton Tower is on the right and La Sal Mountains are in the background (April 10, 2005).
Shirley on the lower of 2 rappells down the SW face of Sister Superior following our climb of Jah Man (April 10, 2005).
Shirley rapping off Sister Superior (Apr. 2005).
Shirley hiking down after our climb of Jah Man on Sister Superior (in background; Apr. 2005).
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