West Face Aid Line On Monkey

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Summary

West Face (Monkey Face) — View down from the start of P2 bolt ladder. Shirley's belaying and Blondie down below is whoring herself to a random passer-by (March 2007).

On Saturday, Shirley & I climbed Dolf’s Dihedral route (with a direct start which trades a chossy but easier terrain for solid but 5.10- flake on the lower half). After that we did the Perpetual Motion (5.9). Both trad obscurities at the base of Monkey Face. Was dismayed to find the top anchor pins on the latter lying on the ledge near the top of the route. Cost us some gear to set up a top anchor. On Sunday (drizzly), we climbed West Face(C1+) of Monkey Face route on March 24, 2007. A couple bolts to get off the ground, then a couple of flared pin scars leading to bomber nutting and more bolts near the top. Pitches 2 and 3 (which we combined) are a bolt ladder. I recall a tricky reach on pitch 3 where a screamer was used as an arm extension to reach the bolt. Couple more bolt ladder moves out of the West Side Cave and then an easy scramble put us on the summit. A nice climb mostly for learning aid (pitch 1) and the position (pitches 2 and 3).