Shirley starting the second pitch of Sunrise Book...5.10- and C1 or apparently 5.12- (Aug. 2005).
In late August of 2005, we were planning on climbing the Astro Elephant route but after chatting with a party who just came off of that route (& hearing about the run outs), we chickened out and climbed the Sunrise Book (5.10, C1…came back for Astro a couple years later). The route though short for The Perch was sustained, even though we French freed the 12- section (duh – of course!). What it lacks in length, it makes up in the “spectacular” department! An amazing natural plumb line. I recall getting off route on pitch 1 and taking my first “alpine whipper” onto a marginal green Alien (which surprisingly held). The water bottle did not fare as well and from that time onwards, we’ve always beefed up the nalgenes hanging from our harnesses with some duct tape & 5mm cord.
Photos
Packing...were supposed to head over to do the South Face of Prusik Peak that weekend but something did not work out permitwise & we ended up heading up to Idaho at the last minute (Aug. 2005). Shirely on the approach hike to Elephants Perch (Aug. 2005). Shirley admiring the east face of Elephants Perch from our camp at the lowest of Saddleback Lakes. Sunrise Book follows the huge, shady dihedral on the (far) right side of the face. Astroelephant (IV 5.10) starts left of Sunrise Book lower in the gully. What a place!! Shirley approaching the route via the descent gully (Aug. 2005). Sunrise Book (III 5.10 C1) as seen from the base. It reaches the obvious dihedral in 2 pitches and follows that for 2 more. The final pitch is a wild chimney (with whole route under you at that point) that puts you on the summit ridge (Aug. 2005). Leading pitch 1 of Sunrise Book. This is right before the .9+ face traverse. Upper pitches follow the dihedral directly above (August 27, 2005). Nearing the top of pitch 1 of Sunrise Book...after a fall (Aug. 2005). Shirley pulling through the crux face moves (5.9+) of pitch 1 of Sunrise Book. The section is harder than it looks from the base of the route (August 27, 2005). Shirley topping out on pitch 1 (5.9+) of Sunrise Book. A short face move (5.8-5.9) caps this challenging pitch (August 27, 2005). Starting up the second pitch of Sunrise Book...5.8 to C1 (short) at the top to overcome the otherwise 5.12- free climbing (Aug. 2005). Looking down from the C1 (or 5.12-) portion of pitch 2 of Sunrise Book. Shirley is belaying me from the comfy perch atop P1. The rock on this whole route is perfect (August 27, 2005). Approaching the short section of aid at the top of pitch 2 of Sunrise Book (Aug. 2005). Shirley starting the second pitch of Sunrise Book...5.10- and C1 or apparently 5.12- (Aug. 2005). Shirley back aiding the second pitch (C1) of Sunrise Book (free at 5.12-). The size of the belay ledge is also apparent in this shot (August 27, 2005). Leading the lower half of pitch 3 of Sunrise Book. The topo gives this pitch a 5.9+ rating but I thought it was much harder than the 5.10- pitch above. Pitch starts nice enough with fun hand jams but about 20-30 feet up the crack closes up into what seemed to be flaring finger jams (August 27, 2005). Shirely atop the difficulties of pitch 3 of Sunrise Book (Aug. 2005). Shirley at the belay atop the third pitch of Sunrise Book (Aug. 2005). Starting up the very nice fourth pitch of Sunrise Book...great, fun climbing. The finishing chimney of pitch 5 looms above (Aug. 2005). Higher on the fun fourth pitch of Sunrise Book (Aug. 2005). Leading the great fourth pitch of Sunrise Book (Aug. 2005). Shirley starting up the fourth pitch of Sunrise Book...a very nice pitch and though rated harder than the previous by our topo, seemed like a cruiser by comparison (Aug. 2005). Starting up the chimney on pitch 5 of Sunrise Book (Aug. 2005). Shirley belaying me inside the chimney on pitch 5 of Sunrise Book. Up short distance into the chimney then traverse out horizontally so that you're directly above the whole route...GREAT position (Aug. 2005). Traversing out horizontally in the chimney of pitch 5 of Sunrise Book...you get a nice view of the whole route below you at this point (Aug. 2005). Shirley out of the chimney on the final pitch of Sunrise Book...photo taken from the summit ridge (Aug. 2005). Shirley on the summit ridge of Elephants Perch after our climb of Sunrise Book. In the background is the other peak of the Saddle Back Mountain (Perch is a part of it; Aug. 2005). Sunrise Book route (III 5.10 C1) follows the obvious dihedral in the photo. It takes 2 pitches to reach the dihedral proper, which itself is another 2 pitches long (Aug. 2005). Sunrise Book route (III 5.10 C1) follows the obvious and beautiful dihedral. Shot taken from the descent gully after our climb (Aug. 2005). The Elephants Perch reflecting in one of the lakes at its base (Aug. 2005). Shirley hiking out on the morning of the third day after our climb of the Sunrise Book (Aug. 2005).
