Go back to Washington Pass Area page.
Words
Leading through the Lithuanian Lip on Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Shirley & I climbed this North American classic line on Saturday, 7/7/7. Drove up from Portland after work on Friday, caught some zzz’s in the car and climbed it the next day in perfect weather conditions. Nobody else on the line all day, with closest people being the two guys on the East Face route of Minuteman next door (they bailed). Car to car with about ~11+ hrs. on route itself (yes, mostly dragging ass). Icy snow slope w/o ax or crampons was painful in the morning. Aid was mostly straightforward (though a KB on P1 is near popping). Found some of the free climbing (esp. up high) hard (& not too aesthetic IMHO) esp. compared to other comparably rated pitches we’ve around Washington Pass (probably tad off route & as always, I just suck). Eaten alive on the hike down by mosquitos!! Friday night departure from PDX & early Sunday morning return – not a bad way of spending a long Saturday.
Photos
Two parties starting up Liberty Crack: lower party is at top of P1 and upper party is working on P3 with leader at or near the aid crux (summer 2005).
Unknown climbers on lower pitches of Liberty Crack. First party is at top of P1 (20 feet below the Lithuanian Lip) with one follower lower and second party is starting P3 (summer 2005).
Shirley in the moat beneath Liberty Bell's east face on approach to Liberty Crack. The early morning approach on icy snow w/o ax or crampons was a good way to get the blood going (July 7, 2007).
Starting up Liberty Crack. We took the alternate start on right side of the block at base, supposedly class 4 (vs. class 3 on left) to minimize icy snow travel...this was more like 5.6 w/o pro and in wet shoes (July 2007).
Nearing the top of P1 on Liberty Crack just below the roof known as Lithuanian Lip (July 2007).
Shirley jugging P1 of Liberty Crack. The fixed KB where she is will not be there too long unless someone resets it with a hammer (#4 Camalot did not do the job; July 2007).
Some fixed hardware from the lower pitches of Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Looking back down at Shirley at the belay atop P1 of Liberty Crack. Shot taken from under the Lithuanian Lip roof (7/7/07).
Leading through the Lithuanian Lip on Liberty Crack - easy aid but a spectacular position. For view in the opposite direction, see here. Long range view of unknown climbers on P2 is here courtesy of Mr. Klenke (July 2007).
Pulling the Lithuanian Lip roof on pitch 2 of Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Looking back at Shirley at belay stance atop P1 from the Lithuanian Lip on P2 of Liberty Crack. For view in the opposite direction, see here (July 2007).
Shirley jugging just past the Lithuanian Lip on P2 of Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Shirley nearing the top of P2 of Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Shirley at the belay stance atop P2 of Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Leading P3 of Liberty Crack - C1+ roughly if all the fixed stuff stays put (July 7, 2007).
The single hook move on the route. Pitch 3 of Liberty Crack. Positive & probably not mandatory...but hell, I carried it with me so might as well stand on it (July 2007).
Shirley jugging P3 of Liberty Crack with the Wine Spires (& the hairpin turn) in the background (July 2007).
Shirley jugging P3 of Liberty Crack. Snow field is about 300 feet below (July 2007).
Shirley topping out on pitch 3 of Liberty Crack...transition to mostly free (July 2007).
Leading P4 of Liberty Crack. For us, this was the first pitch of the route where the aiders were put away. 5.9 for lower 2/3rds with a chossy 5.10 exit (July 2007).
Shirley following the 5.9 crack on P4 of Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Starting up pitch 5 of Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Looking back at Shirley belaying me on pitch 5 of Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Shirley topping out on P5 of Liberty Crack - a long and sustained wide 5.8 groove/crack. Quite nice actually (July 2007).
Shirley following the stembox section of pitch 6. Shot taken while sitting atop the Rotten Block. Snowfield is 700-800 feet below (July 2007).
Belaying atop P6 of Liberty Crack while sitting atop the Rotten Block, a 12-foot feature that mysteriously stays (for the time being) attached to the dihedral. Hope it doesn't go on your shift! View down (July 2007).
Shirley following one of the high pitches of Liberty Crack on jugs (July 2007).
Leading pitch 9 of Liberty Crack - a nice 5.9 dihedral and essentially the last of the technical climbing. I think I messed up the top as I bypassed the 5.8 chimney and stayed in this corner (which got pretty damn hard at that point :). Photo taken July 7, 2007.
Leading the final pitch of difficulties on Liberty Crack line (July 2007).
Shirley topping out on Liberty Crack (July 2007).
Yours truly atop the 4th class ledges just below the summit of Liberty Bell and at the end of the Liberty Crack route (July 2007).
View NE from near top of Liberty Crack. The domes on right are the North (foreground) and South (background, though both blend in together) Early Winter Spires (July 2007).
Go back to Washington Pass Area page.