Morgul Vale

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Summary

Morgul Vale

Pitch 3 topout of Morgul Vale.

For our second lap up Wolf Rock in two years, we chose the new (or renewed) line called Morgul Vale (5.10-). We started up the better looking two-pitch variation called Ian’s Route and then joined the main line. Six very fun pitches of climbing (including a stellar 5.9+ face climbing pitch) and about 2-3 pitches of low 5th class chossaneering. Thanks to Tyler and friends for this gem of a route. Great views of Three Sisters and Mt. Washington from the top. Somehow the descent from the top seemed more sketchy this time around (esp. the top portion)…getting older I guess. There was also a party on Barad-Dur. Great day out in the hills!

Photos

Wolf Rock

The southeast face of Wolf Rock (June 2014).


Wolf Rock

The girls at the base of Morgul Vale route on Wolf Rock (June 2014).


Wolf Rock

Early summer in the Cascade foothills (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Leading pitch 1 of Ian’s Route (I think) – great feet and slopy handholds (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Shirley starting up the first pitch of Morgul Vale…though I think we actually did the first two pitches of Ian’s Route instead (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Ian’s Route pitch 1 – typical face climbing on Wolf Rock: open palm slopers. Very unique, very fun (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Shirley following pitch 1 of Ian’s Route (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

More pitch 1 (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Shirley topping out on pitch 1 of Ian’s Route (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Pitch 2 of Ian’s Route.


Morgul Vale

Shirley on pitch 2 of Ian’s Route. The last third of the pitch is a slab(ish).


Morgul Vale

The slabby finish of pitch 2 (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Leading the third pitch of Morgul Vale – best pitch of the day (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Looking back at Shirley from the traverse along a ledge system that marks then start of pitch 3 of Morgul Vale (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Leading pitch 3 of Morgul Vale – steep but very positive holds means some of the best 5.9+ face climbing we’ve encountered (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Shirley following the best pitch of the day (#3) of Morgul Vale (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Pitch 3.


Morgul Vale

Looking towards the Three Sisters from Morgul Vale (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Pitch 3 topout of Morgul Vale (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Pitch 4 of Morgul Vale (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Leading pitch 5 of Morgul Vale. The route avoids the roofs above with a traverse left and up on the next pitch (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Shirley following pitch 5 – though the angle kicks back, the rock quality becomes a little more suspect (nothing really bad though; June 2014).

Morgul Vale

Unknown climber high on pitch 4 (I think) of the uberclassic Barad-Dur route next door (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Shirley on pitch 5. This is the last place to rap down if one wishes not to top out …but then you’re giving up a day of adventure for an afternoon of cragging (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Leading pitch 6 (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

The zigzagging pitch 6 of Morgul Vale (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Foxglove (I think…) somewhere on Morgul Vale. The entire Wolf Rock was in bloom (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Shirley topping out on pitch 6 of Morgul Vale (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Mount Washington (left) and The Three Sisters cluster on the right (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Shirley on the 4th class pitch 7 of Morgul Vale…with Mount Washington poking out on the left (June 2014).

Morgul Vale

Shirley topping out on Wolf’s summit ridge after about 9 pitches (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Three Sisters from the summit ridge of Wolf Rocks (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

The summit ridge of Wolf Rock with a few Cascade Volcanos dotting the horizon (June 2014).


Morgul Vale

Starting the descent from Wolf Rock. This is our second lap down this thing and it seemed sketchier and less enjoyable this time.


Morgul Vale

More Wolf Rock descent (June 2014).


Wolf Rock

The Great Arch on the south/southeast face of Wolf Rock (June 2014).


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