AR 2013

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Saturday

Gruff

Shirley starting up Gruff (5.10a).

We headed back to the Lower Gorge at Smith after a year+ break from the place. Shirley got things started on Ferret’s Dead (9) and I led Cretin’s Retreat (10c). Both felt harder than we remembered them…in fact Cretin’s felt harder than the 5.11- lines at Vantage that we’ve done this spring. Shirley then led Gruff (her favorite Gorge 10a), I did led Rim Job (10b…felt easier than before) and Shirley cruised Wildfire (10b). As Bad Finger was occupied, we moved on to Cornercopia (10b) and rounded out the day on Cruel Sister (10a) and Blood Clot (10b…single crux move felt as hard as ever). We talked about doing a couple more lines to make it an even ten but the pull of the margaritas overtook us and we headed out (sufficiently tired as it was).

Sunday

Shakespeare Cliff

Morning tape session at the base of Shakespeare Cliff with our two AR students: Steph & Amory (Apr. 2013).

Sunday was spent following Amory and Steph as part of the Mazamas AR class. Yes, once again in the Lower Gorge which actually had lost some of its charm that day with a large cluster of perma-TRs and loud sprayers at the base of Cruel Sister (though it was nice to run into a couple folks we know from PRG that day). Think we both felt pretty worn out from Saturday. Very enthusiastic set of students though – hope they stick with trad.

Photos

Saturday

The Ferret's Dead

Shirley starting up the first route of the day – The Ferret’s Dead (5.9) on the Parched Cat Cliff. Cretin’s Retreat (5.10c) is the crack on the right (Apr. 2013).


Cretin's Retreat

Leading Cretin’s Retreat (5.10c) on the Parched Cat Cliff – like the more well known Wildfire route only more sustained, longer and harder (Apr. 2013).


Cretin's Retreat

Shirley seconding Cretin’s Retreat (5.10c) – this is the lower crux in my opinion where delicate stemming gets you through a tips-only crack section (Apr. 2013).


Wildfire Wall

Blondie assisting at the base of Wildfire Wall (Apr. 2013).


Gruff

Shirley starting up the pretty Gruff (5.10a) line (Apr. 2013).


Gruff

Shirley cruising her favorite Gorge 5.10- (Apr. 2013).


Rim Job

Starting up Rim Job (5.10b)…perhaps the crux of the route is right here?


Rim Job

Leading the pretty nice Rim Job (5.10b) line on the Wildfire Wall (Apr. 2013).


Wildfire

Shirley starting up the classic Wildfire (5.10b) line (Apr. 2013).


Cornercopia

Leading Cornercopia (5.10b) – this is just past the opening crux of the route (Apr. 2013).


Cruel Sister

Leading Cruel Sister (5.10a) – hello again beautiful it’s been too many years!


Blood Clot

The girls licking their chops at the base of Blood Clot (Apr. 2013).


Blood Clot

Shirley seconding Blood Clot (5.10b) – our 8th and final pitch of the Saturday (Apr. 2013).

Sunday

Shakespeare Cliff

Morning tape session at the base of Shakespeare Cliff with our two AR students: Steph & Amory (Apr. 2013).


Two Gentlemen's Penumonia

Steph starting her lead of Two Gentlemen’s Penumonia (5.7) belayed by Shirley (Apr. 2013).


Ophelia

Amory starting up Ophelia (5.8) on Shakespeare Cliff (Apr. 2013).


Ophelia

Steph starting up Ophelia (5.8) on the Shakespeare Cliff belayed by Shirley (Apr. 2013).


Big Woody

Amory leading the very nice Big Woody (5.9) line on the Shakespeare Cliff (Apr. 2013).


Catwalk Cliff

Catwalk Cliff (and a bit of Wildfire Wall visible on the right) as seen from above the Shakespeare Cliff on the east side (Apr. 2013).


Sleeping Dog

Steph leading the wide-looking (never done it) Sleeping Dog (5.7) route on the Arrington Columns. Shirley belaying (Apr. 2013).


Sleeping Dog

Steph rolling an anchor atop pitch 1 of Sleeping Dog (5.7) on the Arrington Columns (Apr. 2013).


Lost Souls

Amory starting up the (6th pitch?) Lost Souls (5.9) line (Apr. 2013).


Sleeping Dog

Shirley leading “pitch 2” of Sleeping Dog (5.7) on the Arrington Columns. The Wombat is visible high above (Apr. 2013).


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