Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio 2

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Go back to Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio 1.

Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Final pitch (#20).

We woke up in the morning to a sight of fog in the valleys below. It looked like a river or perhaps like a glacier. As we were packing up, a condor soared just below us – amazing! With some rest, the climbing went reasonably quickly. We combined pitches fourteen and fifteen (up to .9), ate some easy choss on pitch sixteen and “enjoyed” some wideness and slabbiness on pitch seventeen (10a). Pitch eighteen was a quick traverse and nineteen was the last of the 5.10 climbing…a 10b tips crack to be specific. Perhaps some of the best climbing on the route. A hand crack and a dihedral (.9) of pitch twenty put us on fourth class terrain. We scrambled a bit higher, unroped and started hiking up towards the summit. We were almost out of water and so it was nice when we stumbled onto a puddle in a granite recess under a boulder. Right below the summit, we intercepted a well cairned descent route and followed it down. It eventually put us one double rope rap above the gully. The choss gully (where EZ Does It begins) was a pain in the ass – many drop offs up high would be quite dangerous in darkness. We made it back to our bivy sacks in the early afternoon and after cooking up some dinner decided to hike out in the morning.

Photos

Valle Cochamo

In the morning, a river of fog in valleys below greeted us. Click photo for a video (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

The good-morning pitches (#14 & 15) of day two (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Shirley topping out on pitch 15 (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Shirley on pitch 16 – hollow rock, sparse pro but easy climbing (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Shirley finishing pitch 17 (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Shirley at the belay for pitch 17 – a bit of wideness and some delicate face above (Jan. 2015).

Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Looking up at the beautiful granite that still stands between us and the summit (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Slabby finish to pitch 17 (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Pitch 18.


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Leading the pretty 5.10- tips crack on pitch 19 of Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio…last of the 5.10 climbing (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Looking back from the 5.10- finger crack of pitch 19 (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Leading the final pitch (20) of Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio…we’re are ready to be done!


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Views from top of the route – a bit of hiking stand between us and the summit (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Done, done, done!


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Near the summit of Cerro Trinidad. Was going to rotate the photo but hey – it reflects our tired state well I thought (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

We were running low on water but fortunately found this mossy drip right below the summit (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

More views from the top (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Shirley starting the hike off the summit of Cerro Trinidad. It’s well cairned and easy…until you rap into the gully, then it becomes a loose pain in the ass (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Shirley hiking down the gully. In the daylight, it’s a PITA but not too bad; would be pretty dangerous in darkness (lots of very loose drop offs to meander around – don’t slip!).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

One last look see at the beautiful face (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Shirley happy to be done! We spent one more night in our Valle Trinidad bivy before hiking out (Jan. 2015).


Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio

Hiking down the next day back to our base camp. What trail erosion?


Valle Cochamo

Back in base camp on the valley floor, we aired out our stuff and even took showers…


Valle Cochamo

Morning coffee in our base camp (while admiring the route we’ve just done).

Valle Cochamo

Cerro Trinidad from the valley floor (Jan. 2015).


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Go back to Chile.