Tissi/Andrich/Bortoli on Torre Venezia.
Waiting out the weather in Rifugio Auronzo (2008).
A thus-far humble list of places we’ve climbed on the Old Continent. Hopefully it’ll grow as the climbing there does not suck. In fact, we very much enjoy climbing routes with a bit of history behind them, or in case of Meteora around them. Seeing names such as Cassin and Comici on the FA lists further adds to the appeal. It is true that climbing in the Dolomites for example is far from a wilderness experience for the most part; however, same could be said for much of Yosemite Valley.
Trip Reports Listed Chronologically
Cassin on Cima Piccolissima (July 2010).
“Euro Sampler – Dolomites” (August to September 2008)
“Euro Sampler – Meteora” (September 2008)
“Rainy Riglos” (May 2010)
“Revisiting The Dolomites” (July 2010)
“A Couple Of Spanish Crags” (September 2010)
Strolling aimlessly through the streets of Venice (Aug. 2008).
Listings By Area and Route
The Dolomites (Italy)
Sella Pass visible below.
So many great (and long) moderates, so many hard (and long) classics! We do love the place. Weather can be a bit shifty (based on our two trips there and a total duration of about 5 weeks) but overall not too bad. We’ve been known to have worse weather luck elsewhere.
South-West Corner, Trenker on First Sella Tower (V-)
W.S.W. Arete, Tissi on First Sella Tower (VI)
West Face, Vinatzer on Third Sella Tower (V+)
Gross-Fuhre on Piz Pordoi (V)
South Face Buttress 2, Pillar Rib on Tofana Di Rozes (VI-)
South-West Face, Via delle Guide on Torre Grande (IV)
South Face, Via Miriam on Torre Grande (V+)
North Face, Comici on Cima Grande Di Lavaredo (VII-)
South Arete, The Yellow Edge on Cima Piccola (VI)
South Face, Cassin on Cima Piccolissima (VII-)
South Face, Tissi on Torre Venezia (VI-)
East Face, Steger on Cima Catinaccio (VI-)
Like my knobs? Pitch 1 of Via Scorpion on Spindel Tower.
We spent about two weeks there during the early fall (September to early October) of 2008…and probably had like 4 sunny days in total. All other days involved dodging rain showers or just not being able to climb because of sustained rain. Fortunately, the table wine was cheap, there were monasteries to see, Greek coffee was decent and Internet readily available…did I mention cheap booze? When we did get to climb, it was stellar! Reasonably well protected (based on routes we’ve done) and seemingly well maintained routes at almost any (weekend warrior) grade level. Awesome spires and an other-worldly kind of setting.
Eiertanz on Kelch (VI- A0)
Ostkante Doupianifels (VI)
Sudostwand on Doupianifels (VII-)
Traumpfeiler on Heiliger Geist (V+)
Nordostweg on Heiliggeistwachter (V+)
Sudwestkante on Heiliggeistwachter (VI-)
Via Scorpion on Spindel (V- A0)
Archimedes on Pixari (V)
Hypotenuse on Sourloti (VI)
Linie Des Fallenden Tropfens on Sourloti (VI)
Hartetest on Kumarieskopf (VI+)
Westkante on Ypsiloterafels (VI-)
Shirley hiking through Riglos.
Intimidating place! For us anyway. Exactly the sort of climbing we’ve successfully managed to avoid here in the US: steep, sustained, and juggy. All arms it seemed. Really had to knock down our hopes and expectations. On the flip side, it’s so much of what we love: multipitch climbing, wild exposure, and proud summits sitting atop huge (1000-foot tall) towers! Will go back…barely scratched the surface.
Normal Route on El Puro (6b)
Moskitos on La Visera (6a – last pitch skipped, wet)
Galletas on Mallo Fire (6a)
Chooper on El Pison (6a C1)
Espolon del Adamelo & Normal Route on El Pison (5c)
Punsola-Reniu on Cavall Bernat tower in Montserrat.
One route but we liked the place. Sort of seemed like Meteora (beyond just the obvious similarities in rock type) in the relaxed atmosphere and fun, low-stress climbing. Again, basing this on one route…
Punsola-Reniu on Cavall Bernat (6a A0)
Shirley admiring her parking job (yes, only 2 tires make full contact with the ground) after our climb of Vinatzer route on Third Sella Tower (Aug. 2008).
Castillo de Loarre in Spain’s Aragon (May 2010).
Sella Pass with some local pass residents in the foreground (Aug. 2008).
Village of Aguero at night (May 2010).
A traffic jam in northern Greece during one of our rainy day road trips (Sept 2008).
One last stroll (so Euro!) through the old city and off we go ..homebound (Oct. 2008).