February Weekend In 2009

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Summary

Pack Animal Direct

Shirley styling the beautiful corner that is Pack Animal Direct (5.10b).

Shirley and I spent either a day or two (don’t recall) in Smith on a nice February weekend in 2009. It was Shirley’s sending spree that included Toys In The Attic (5.9), Toy Blocks (5.10a), Pack Animal Direct (5.10b). I always found that last one pretty damn hard…

Photos

Toy Blocks

Toy Blocks

Shirley leading Toy Blocks.


Toy Blocks

Shirley leading Toy Blocks (5.10a) crack with someone's rope hanging on Ring Of Fire (Feb. 2009).


Toy Blocks

Shirley styling Toy Blocks (5.10a) - a beautiful traversing crack. She's approaching the 2nd crux of the meandering pitch. A bit loose/hollow sounding up top but overall a very nice line. Smith Rocks, Oregon (Feb. 2009).

Toys In The Attic

Toys In The Attic

Shirley leading the nice crack of Toys In The Attic (5.9).


Toys In The Attic

Shirley approaching the crux of Toys In The Attic (5.9).


Toys In The Attic

Shirley starting the crux downward traverse on the final section of Toys In The Attic (5.9).


Toys In The Attic

Yours truly following Toys In The Attic.

Pack Animal Direct

Pack Animal Direct

Shirley sending the beautiful Pack Animal Direct (5.10b) - a laser-cut inside corner with a tips crack. Four-star line. Smith Rock, Oregon. February 2009.


Pack Animal Direct

Shirley styling the beautiful corner that is Pack Animal Direct (5.10b). Smith Rock, Oregon. February 2009.


Pack Animal Direct

Shirley sending Pack Animal Direct.


The Dihedrals

A busy weekend in Smith's Dihedrals area! Many of Smith's classic lines are featured in this shot. The overhanging arete on the left is Chain Reaction (5.12), to its right is Darkness At Noon (5.13) and the climber is being lowerd from Heinous Cling (5.12). The climber high up on the face (center) is (I think!) doing French Connection - a 5.13 variation (that incidentally I think starts up the trad classic of Sunshine Dihedral (5.11+) on the right) to the famous To Bolt Or Not To Be (first 5.14 in North America). Arete to its left is Last Waltz (5.12). Chalked up face to the right of Sunshine hosts Powder In The Eyes (5.12+). Climber on the right is about to launch up into Crossfire (5.12) from top of Karate Crack. The arete to his left is Latest Rage (5.12). Many more that I don't point out...pretty amazing stretch of cliff even if almost all of it is in a universe different than my own. February 7, 2009.


The Dihedrals

An unknown climber leading French Connection (I think!) - a selective combo of the Sunshine Dihedral (11+) and To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a).


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