Crack Of Doom | chossclimbers.com

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Summary

Crack Of Doom.

In June of 2008, we went back to Castle Rock in Leavenworth and climbed the nice Crack Of Doom (5.10b) in three pitches. The crux pitch involves a cool roof pull followed by some OK crack climbing and topped off by a hard (for me) traverse out left to the belay. On Sunday, we were in Tieton at The Bend for some quality basalt cracks, including Peace, Love And Rope (5.9, led by Shirley) and Seizure (5.10b) led by me.

Photos

Crack Of Doom (5.10-)

Shirley atop P1 of Crack Of Doom on Castle Rock in Leavenworth, WA (June 2008).

Small roof near the start of pitch 2 of Crack Of Doom...easier than it looked...vs. the top out which was harder than it looked (IMHO anyway).

Leading the small roof on P2 of Crack Of Doom. Castle Rock, Leavenworth, WA...this was not the crux (IMHO; June 2008).

Leading pitch 2 on Crack Of Doom (5.9+/5.10b depending on your choice of guidebook). The roof is pulled on good holds/good crack....the crux for me came just below the anchors (maybe I was off-route??? June 2008).

Looking back down from top of pitch 2 of Crack Of Doom. Shirley is at the pitch 1 belay and Blondie is on Logger's Ledge.

Shirley following the crux pitch of Crack Of Doom (5.9+/5.10b). I think I screwed up here & went left to a bolted anchor (hard) instead of right to a gear anchor (???, June 2008).

Shirley finishing the crux of Crack Of Doom (pitch 2). Castle Rock, Leavenworth, WA (June 2008).

Shirley finishing the crux moves near the top of pitch 2 (my opinion anyway) of Crack Of Doom.

Starting the lead of pitch 3 of Crack Of Doom on upper Castle Rock...one move and then an easy if long cruise to the summit (June 2008).

Shirley at the hanging belay atop pitch 2 of Crack Of Doom (5.9+/5.10b) on upper Castle Rock. This bolted belay station might be off-route...not sure. Our dog Blondie is below (June 2008).

Peace, Love And Rope (5.9)

Shirley on the intermediate ledge that leads to routes such as MX, Ed's Jam, Peace, Love And Rope, etc...This is one short scramble kind of pitch on the The Bend wall in Tieton River Gorge, WA (June 2008)

Shirley starting up Peace, Love And Rope from an intermediate ledge at Tieton's Bend area.

Shirley leading Peace, Love And Rope.

Shirley leading Peace, Love, And Rope (5.8+/5.9 depending on guidebook) at The Bend in Tieton River. Her left hand is on MX (5.10a; June 2008).

Shirley starting the lead of Peace, Love And Rope (5.9) on The Bend cliff of Tieton River. The crack to her immediate left is the classic MX (5.10a; June 2008).

Shirley nearing the top of the nice Peace, Love And Rope belayed by yours truly.

Shirley leading Peace, Love, And Rope (5.8+/5.9) at The Bend in Tieton River Gorge (June 2008).

Seizure (5.10b)

Starting up Seizure (5.10b) - a wideish hand crack with a tricky exit at the top...or maybe I was just gassed.

Leading Seizure (5.10b) on The Bend cliff at Tieton River, WA (June 2008).

Leading the "wide hand crack" that is Seizure (5.10b) just left of MX at The Bend in Tieton River (June 2008).

Almost done leading Seizure (5.10b).

Shirley following Seizure (5.10b).

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