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Fishhook Arete.
All I recall from our climb of this Fishhook Arete (5.8) on this here Mt. Russell was the cold…and I mean COLD penetrating wind all day (this was June 19th-ish, 2005). We actually were there to do Mithral Dihedral but that was in the shade… I still remember the headaches! Unlike Whitney (the year prior), when we hiked our sea-level habituated bodies up to Iceberg Lake in one push, this time we broke up the approach with stops at Upper Boyscout and Iceberg Lakes. Felt better though in retrospect the route is not really worth a 3 or 4 day weekend…it’s pretty good but hardly great.
Photos
Shirley at Upper Boyscout Lake. Our first night's camp (June 17, 2005).
When I punctured my mat with the ax (dumbass move), I went all McGeyver & wove myself a nice makeshift pad out of our twin ropes...night one, Upper Boyscout Lake (June 17, 2005).
Shirley hiking up towards Iceberg Lake with Keeler Needle in background (June 18, 2005).
Shirley in our camp at Iceberg Lake with Mt. Whitney in the background (June 19, 2005).
Shirley studying up the topo at our sunny camp at Iceberg Lake the day prior to the climb (June 18, 2005).
Frozen over Iceberg Lake and the approach col leading to the base of Mt. Russell (June 19, 2005).
Shirley hiking up to the col above Iceberg Lake from camp...this our climb day (June 19, 2005).
Shirley on approach to Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell. This is the col above Iceberg Lake (June 19, 2005).
Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell is the obvious one curing in from left to right (June 19, 2005).
Shirley hiking up to the base of Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell with Arctic (yes it was that day!) Lakes below (June 19, 2005).
Beginning the lead of P1 of Fishhook Arete (and warming the hands from the piercing wind). This is probably the most sustained pitch of the route (June 19, 2005).
Leading pitch 1 of Fishhook Arete (June 2005).
Shirley following pitch 1 of Fishhook Arete (June 2005).
Shirley atop pitch 1 of Fishhook Arete (June 2005).
Leading pitch 2 (June 2005).
Shirley topping out on P2 of Fishhook Arete. In the background are Arctic Lakes on the north side of Mt. Whitney. Arctic - freakin' arctic wind (June 19, 2005).
Leading pitch 3 of Fishhook Arete...chilly, chilly June 2005.
Looking back towards Shirely from lead of pitch 3 of Fishhook Arete (June 2005)
Shirley at the top of the third pitch on Fishhook Arete (June 2005).
Leading pitch 4 of Fishhook Arete (June 2005).
Shirley belaying from a minor gendarme atop P3 of Fishhook Arete. This is where the Fishhook makes its turn and heads directly for the West Summit of Russell. The pitch shown including the downclimb are 5.5 or so. For a shot looking the opposite way, see here (June 19, 2005).
Leading the low 5th class P4 of Fishhook Arete. The upper portions of the route follow the buttress in the photo. For a view looking the opposite way, see here (June 19, 2005).
Shirley topping out on P4 of Fishhook Arete with the northern flanks of Mt. Whitney in the background. This is just above the notch (what Supertopo calls the 5.8 downclimb) at the foot of the main/upper portion of the arete. Despite its sunny appearance, it was freezing that day with constant piercing wind (June 19, 2005).
Shirley (freezing of course) on top of pitch 4 of Fishhook Arete (June 2005).
Shirley on pitch 5 of Fishhook Arete (June 2005).
Beginning the lead of P6 of Fishhook Arete (~5.8). Pitch starts with some intermittent hand cracks and then enters what Supertopo calls a 5.8 chimney (just out of view above my position). In fact, not one chimney move is required as there's a great handcrack (#2-#3 Camalot) in the the chimney (June 19, 2005).
Shirley on pitch 6 (June 2005).
Shirley on the class 4 ledges on P7 of Fishhook Arete. The cirque in the background below is where Iceberg Lake is. The valley on left side of photo drops off to Upper Boyscout Lake (June 19, 2005).
On top pitch 7 or 8 of Fishhook Arete...with a frozen asshole if I recall (June 2005).
Shirley on the summit ridge of Mt. Russell after our climb of its Fishhook Arete (June 19, 2005).
Yours truly on the summit of Russell after our climb of Fishhook Arete. I was feeling like crap due to altitude and the miserably cold and constant wind blasting us the entire day. In fact, shortly after this shot was taken, I blew chunks of previous night's dinner. This is looking roughly west. The slopes on the left side of photo make up the backside (~north side) of Mount Whitney (June 19, 2005).
Shirley hiking down following our climb of Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell. Conditions were pretty chilly throughout the day - hence the full on arctic attire. First ~2 pitches of the route are visible. Pitch
North face of Mt. Whitney from the base of Mt. Russell after our climb of Fishhook Arete (June 19, 2005).
Shirley hiking down from Iceberg Lake the day after our climb of Fishhook Arete on Russell. Mt. Whitney dominates the background views (June 2005).
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